Addis Ababa city guide

When to visit

The dry season runs roughly October to May, with the clearest skies from October to February. The main rains fall June to September, when the city turns green and afternoon downpours are common. Big cultural moments worth planning around: Enkutatash (Ethiopian New Year, 11 September), Meskel (late September, the Demera bonfire in Meskel Square), Genna (Ethiopian Christmas, 7 January) and Timket (Epiphany, 19 January, the biggest street celebration of the year).

Getting your bearings

Things to see

• National Museum of Ethiopia: home of Lucy, the 3.2-million-year-old hominid. Allow 90 minutes.
• Unity Park: the restored palace grounds of Emperor Menelik II with gardens, a zoo and historic halls. Book tickets ahead on busy weekends.
• Entoto Park and Entoto Hills: eucalyptus forests, walking and cycling trails, restaurants with views over the whole city. Go in the morning for clear air.
• Holy Trinity Cathedral: the resting place of Emperor Haile Selassie; dress modestly and remove shoes where asked.
• Red Terror Martyrs Memorial Museum: a small, moving museum on the Derg era, near Meskel Square.
• Ethnological Museum: inside Haile Selassie's former palace on the university campus; the best introduction to Ethiopia's many cultures.
• Merkato: one of Africa's largest open-air markets. Go with a local or driver, leave valuables behind, and treat it as an experience rather than a shopping trip.
• Adwa Victory Memorial and Friendship Park: newer landmarks near Piassa and the Palace, good for an evening walk.

Eating and drinking

Ethiopian food is built around injera, the sour flatbread, eaten with the right hand. Order a beyaynetu (mixed vegetarian platter, and on Wednesdays and Fridays, the fasting-day default), tibs (sautéed meat), kitfo (minced beef, raw or lightly cooked) or doro wat (slow-cooked chicken stew). Addis also has excellent Italian, Middle Eastern and Chinese restaurants thanks to its history and diplomatic community.

Coffee was born here. Try a traditional coffee ceremony at least once, and stop at one of the old Piassa roasters for a macchiato. Tap water is not safe to drink; bottled water is cheap and everywhere.

Money, phones and practicalities

• Currency: the Ethiopian birr (ETB). Rates move; check the day's rate and exchange at banks or your hotel, never on the street. US dollars are widely accepted for larger payments such as car rental and hotels.
• Cards and mobile money: Visa and Mastercard work at hotels, bigger restaurants and ATMs, but many places are cash only. Telebirr and CBE Birr mobile payments are everywhere; a local can help you pay with them.
• SIM cards: buy an Ethio Telecom or Safaricom SIM at the airport or any shop with your passport. Data is inexpensive and coverage in the city is good.
• Visas: most nationalities can apply online in advance through the official Ethiopian e-visa portal. Check requirements before you fly.
• Time and calendar: Ethiopia uses its own 13-month calendar and, informally, a 12-hour clock that starts at sunrise ("1 o'clock" is 7 am). When agreeing a time, confirm whether it is local or international time.
• Language: Amharic is the working language; English is widely spoken in hotels, restaurants and offices. A few words go a long way: selam (hello), ameseginalehu (thank you), ishi (okay).
• Dress and etiquette: casual is fine in the city; cover shoulders and knees at churches and mosques. Ask before photographing people.

Getting around and driving in Addis

Ride-hailing apps (Ride, Feres, Yango) work well for short hops. Blue-and-white minibuses are cheap but confusing for first-timers. The light rail is useful on its two lines but crowded. For anything beyond a few trips a day, a rental car with or without a driver is the most comfortable and flexible option.

If you are driving yourself:

• Traffic drives on the right. Cars are left-hand drive.
• Expect dense, improvised traffic, pedestrians everywhere and roundabouts that run on confidence. Drive defensively and slowly.
• Fuel stations can run short; fill up when you see a working pump, especially before leaving the city.
• Avoid driving outside the city after dark: unlit roads, livestock and trucks without lights.
• Carry your licence, passport copy and the rental documents at all times; police checkpoints are routine and polite if your papers are in order.
• Parking attendants in yellow vests manage most street parking; pay the small fee and keep the ticket.

Day trips from Addis Ababa

We arrange cars and drivers for all of these. Multi-day trips to Lalibela, Bahir Dar and Gondar are possible by road or combined with a domestic flight; ask us for a quote.

Staying safe

Addis Ababa is generally welcoming and low-risk for visitors. Petty theft happens in crowded places such as Merkato, Piassa and around Meskel Square, so keep phones and bags close. Use registered taxis or ride apps at night. Check your government's current travel advice before travelling outside the capital, and tell us your route so we can advise on road conditions.